Tineo to Pola de Allande

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Camino Primitivo
Day 23 of our Adventure: WALK!!
Sunday September 24, 2017

27km / 15.5 miles / 9 hours
Actual: 20 miles / 8 hours
Total Ascent: 1984 ft.
Total Descent: 738 ft.
Difficulty Rating: Terrain 5; Waymarking; 2
Scenery Rating: 4

Tineo to Pola de Allende

We left Tineo in the fog, but quickly ascended well above it. The walk was peaceful, even though it was steep early in our journey. Sundays in Spain are very quiet, and most (if not all) business are closed. Thankfully a few bars were open for coffee, but we didn’t come upon the first one until almost noon!

The time zone in Spain is the same as Germany’s, which is a little crazy if you look at the map. In 1940, Spain’s Fascist dictator, Francisco Franco, switched Spain’s clocks ahead 1 hour to be in line with Hitler’s Germany. When we leave for our walk each morning, almost always before 7:30, and sometimes even earlier, it is still dark. Very few hotels or bards open for breakfast before 9:00. The good news is we’re early risers, and we have seen some really beautiful sunrises. But starting to walk without coffee has been hell.

The Terrain Rating goes from 1 (basically a [very long] walk in the park) to a 5, which is what we experienced on this walk, and expect again on our walk to La Mesa. We had very steep, very rocky climbs both up and down (and up and down, and up and down….). Every once in a while we had stretches on flat, shaded dirt (not mud!) trails. No matter what the terrain was like the scenery was breathtakingly beautiful.

We’ve been seeing many of the same people on our hikes each day, ever since we left Oviedo. On today’s walk we had 2 options: the higher altitude “Los Hospitales” route, or the lower (but much longer) route to Pola Allande, and then to Berduceo or La Mesa. The 2 come together toward the top. We took the lower route, and we will probably meet up with our Camino companions when we all travel from La Mesa to Grandas de Salime on the 28th.

We are staying at Hotel La Nueva Allandesa for 2 nights, using a car service to drive us back after our walk to La Mesa, and then taking us back on Thursday to continue walking on our route. There aren’t many options for sleeping OR eating along this stretch.

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