Culture and Cuisine

Full disclosure: I employed ChatGPT to populate some of these blogs to save time. I edited and deleted about half and added my own experiences.

While many visit Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port for the Camino, the town itself is a cultural treasure. Basque heritage is evident everywhere—from the unique language (Euskara) spoken by locals, to the vibrant festivals, traditional music, and folk dances. I loved being among “my people” (Basques), and took every opportunity to tell the locals we met about my Basque family.

Gastronomy is another highlight. Pilgrims and tourists alike feast on hearty Basque specialties: garbure (a robust soup of cabbage, beans, and ham), trout from the nearby streams, sheep’s milk cheese, freshly baked gateaux Basques, and regional wines. We had an amazing Lubino (Sea Bass) dinner at a wonderful Basque restaurant in town.

Pilgrim Services and Preparation

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is exceptionally well-equipped to assist pilgrims. The pilgrim office provides maps, advice on routes, weather updates, and stamps for the indispensable “credencial” or pilgrimage passport. Numerous albergues, guesthouses, and hotels cater to every budget and need, often filling up quickly in the high season. We stayed at a charming hotel, the appropriately named “Hotel Central”, in the center of town.

Shops stock hiking gear, first-aid supplies, and the all-important scallop shell—a centuries-old symbol of the Camino. The shops and pilgrim office open very early!

Stories and Spiritual Connections

Each year, thousands of people embark from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port for reasons as varied as the pilgrims themselves. Some are motivated by faith or tradition, others by a search for meaning, healing, or simply the love of walking. Along the Camino, conversations flow easily; language barriers melt away in the warmth of shared experience.

The Camino is as much an inner journey as a physical one. Many recount moments of revelation and transformation amid the mountains and meadows, the laughter and the blisters. In Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, this sense of possibility and hope is tangible, woven into the very fabric of the town.

Practical Tips for Pilgrims

• Timing: The main Camino season runs from spring to autumn, with the busiest months being May, June, and September. Early spring and late autumn can be quieter but riskier weather-wise, especially in the mountains.
• Preparation: The first stage is strenuous. Adequate training, good footwear, layered clothing, and a light backpack are essential.
• Reservations: Book accommodation in advance during peak season, as Saint-Jean’s lodgings fill up quickly.
• Health: Take care to acclimate to the altitude, stay hydrated, and treat any early blisters to prevent complications later.
• Community: Embrace the camaraderie. The Camino spirit is one of kindness, generosity, and mutual support.

The Camino Francés: Beginning the Pilgrimage

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port’s significance lies not just in its beauty but in its role as the “zero kilometer” of this epic journey. Pilgrims, identifiable by their scallop shells and sturdy boots, gather here to obtain their pilgrim credentials, often visiting the pilgrim office on Rue de la Citadelle. The volunteers in the pilgrim office were very helpful, and gave us some tips on how to stay on the path. Only problem: we assumed the Camino would start uphill from the pilgrim office… 

The Legendary First Stage: Over the Pyrenees

One of the most iconic and challenging sections of the entire Camino Francés is the very first stage: crossing the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles in Spain. This demanding 25-kilometer (15.5-mile) trek ascends more than 1,200 meters (3280 feet), winding through lush forests, high mountain pastures, and offering panoramic vistas that are both breathtaking and humbling.

Originally, we planned to give ourselves a day to deal with our jet lag and do this initial stage tomorrow. Luckily, we changed our minds and decided to break the stage into 2 days, walking to Orisson, only about 4.7 miles, today, and completing the stage tomorrow. We started out immediately going the wrong way, wondering why we didn’t see any other pilgrims walking. Instead of walking only 4.7 miles, we walked 10. Instead of an elevation gain of 1900 feet, we climbed 2710. Tomorrow will be even harder, but we’ll pay closer attention to the route, hopefully making the 10+ miles in 5.5 hours.

Starting in October instead of August like we’ve done on our prior Caminos, we started our trek at 7:45 instead of 6:00, thinking we’d be back in St. Jean by noon. Ha! From my Strava account: